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Grand Hotel et de Milan
In Milan, Italy
receives |
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 Extraordinary |
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Stars & Stripes for a World Class Hotel |
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The
Ultimate Award: Seven Stars & Stripes
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On my way from the airport to the center of Milan it occurred to me
that in a very subtle way I was being seduced by the splendor and grandeur of
this awesome city. It was to be a thorough seduction, the kind you read about
in romantic novels and see featured in love stories on the silver screen. My
love affair with 'Milano', the elegant fashion capital of Europe began with an
incredible destination that was to become my home for a few days in January,
the Grand Hotel et de Milan. It is located in perhaps the most sought-after
position directly in the center of the city.
In my mind it was the
world of fashion that I expected to overshadow my visit, and there was to be
much more of that aspect throughout my stay here, but it moved me deeply to be
in the presence of such eloquence and undaunted historical importance. Here we
now pass in front of the portal of Milan's Duomo (Cathedral) - Cathedral Santa
Maria Nascente - where Milan's pulse beats sharp and unbridled and you meet all
its peculiarities all at once. Just around the corner, only a small absorbing
walk on Via St. Margherita and Via Manzoni, is waiting our glamorous home where
a stately, well-dressed doorman attentively works to manage the comings and
goings in front of the hotel. The prospect of simmering in the same pot that
has seen the likes of MARIA CALLAS, RUDOLF NUREYEV and ENRICO CARUSO brings
one's persona to a higher level of cultural awareness. The building itself fits
well in the Via Manzoni with the neighboring styles of architecture while
allowing guests to enjoy the age-old appeal of nineteenth century noble
residences. During the night the brightly lit front of the Grand Hotel et de
Milan welcomes you in a warm, golden illumination, which succeeded in making
the seduction complete.
After our arrival my associate Bernd and I were
cordially welcomed with a warm smile and strong handshake by Mr. Nicola Toso,
Assistant Manager of the Grand Hotel et de Milan. |
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It was
instantly obvious to Bernd and I that we were in the fashion capital of Europe
upon meeting our courteous and elegantly dressed host Nicola. Stylishly attired
in a three button blue business suit fashioned in Milan, Nicola had that
American Dream Partner look as if it were done on purpose! |
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 Rolf Staehler & Nicola Toso |
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A high degree of fluency in English and German proved
a rather satisfying asset for us during our hosted events throughout our
stay. Nicola immediately recognized our superbly styled RIMOWA travel
companions, which held our belongings and confirmed our decision to include the
entire series of brand new suitcases for our travels. Although Bernd had
insisted prior to departure, to travel to Milan in total style with this
elegant assortment of luggage, it was entirely much more than was needed to
support our meager wardrobe for the few days of fashionable pleasure. His
motivation only became apparent, as you will see later on during our fantastic
shopping spree!
It was now time for freshening up and to take a closer
look at our elegant suite. Upon entering we noticed an inspiring fruit platter,
with the obligatory fruit-knife twinkling before us as if to beckon further
investigation.
"What a spacious, venerable suite, tall rooms" Bernd
mentioned right away, "full of light, with lofty windows and exclusive
historical-ambience-handcrafted curtains" - I opened the window and inhaled the
fresh, promising air of an adventure just beginning. Its a special
feeling to have a suite inside the old historical district of Milan in one of
the finest Hotels. We had to hurry - Nicola was awaiting us for the Grand
VIP-TOUR. Bernd
mentioned on our way back to the fireplace hall: "Rolf could you believe
that there is a tiny piano in our Suite?" - "Of course and I was also impressed
by the historical oil paintings what an stimulating place"
Our
arrival at our meeting place with Nicola was breathtaking and opulent. He was
waiting for us inside one of the large open living rooms of this grandiose
historical former villa, the fireplace hall. You can imagine the feeling of
contentment we experienced while being surrounded by this exclusive historical
ambiance. |
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 Bernd Deyerler & Nicola Toso |
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"Welcome home" - said
Nicola with a wining smile and gave us a brief overview about the Grand Hotel
et de Milan itself - as an inspiring appetizer for our
VIP-TOUR. It is easy
to see how the venerable Grand Hotel et de Milan existed since its inception in
1863 as the meeting place of international society and celebrities. Nicola
continued, This is because the gracefulness of the former Milanese
casa was transformed in its entirety into the present by careful
and loving attention to detail.
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To further improve our guests level of comfort,
the entire hotel was completely renovated for over two years and reopened in
1993 to become the state of the art home away from home.
No matter
which special pleasure leads you to Milan, may it be the financial district,
the La Scala Theatre, Via Monte Napoleone, Via della Spiga - just to mention a
few - you will find those attractions only a stone's throw away from your new
home."
After this brief introduction by Nicola it was time to
proof the pudding and start with the guided
VIP-TOUR through one of
the most magnificent Grand Hotels.
Here inside the fireplace-hall, it's
simply up to your own desire - you can enjoy your privacy - or even savor this
important scene and be seen. What about a nice cup of coffee out of some elite
china, served with a friendly smile by the attentive - but always reticent
staff knowledgeable in the needs of this special society. - We insist as
an American Dream TIP to inhale this rarefied atmosphere.
As we
continued on, a strange feeling overcame us as if we were being shadowed by
some unseen presence. Nicola calmed us by commenting that these were exactly
the same hall and lobbies that the great Verdi had strolled during his lengthy
visit and may still be historically alive with the pulse his
greatness. Our host took us through a variety of elaborately decorated rooms
and suites from many different periods reflecting diverse styles from Art
Nouveau to Art Deco. He commented that one could spend weeks discovering
something new and exciting every day at the Hotel et de Milan. |
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We stopped by the Maria
Callas Suite, the very same one used by her each time she visited Milan to sing
at La Scala. You will still find the same historical period furniture including
root wooden cabinets, heavy parquet floors covered with handcrafted carpets of
tremendous value.
I have to mention the very best Italian marble inside
each spacious bath-room that includes almost every amenity you can imagine is
extraordinary; and don't forget the comfortable canopy bed. |
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 Maria Callas Suite |
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- Maybe Ms Callas was as most of the other
guests, a returning visitor due to the affectionate turn down service with the
accurately aligned white linen bathrobe and slippers - which warmly welcomed
her back after each grandiose performance at La Scala.
- Maybe also due
to the Swiss Chocolate bedtime sweets, which Bernd loved so much and that I
never had a chance to taste, but this must be our secret.
It was time to
move on after so much historical detail but according to Nicola there was more
to come. He now presented us with the Royal Giuseppe Verdi Suite to enjoy the
impressive atmosphere of an ancient and noble past. This is an example of
our unique method of hospitality, he said with tremendous pride.
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 The Royal Suite of Giuseppe Verdi |
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My first impression was
'world level perfection' - but lets start from the beginning: Way back, before
1863, it was the Suite 105 on the first floor of then "Albergo di Milano",
mentioned before as the former Milanese "casa", where Giuseppe Verdi decided to
stay.
At this time he left his countryside residence and decided to
live and work in town. In 1863 "Albergo di Milano" became the Grand Hotel et de
Milan, where he continued to stay in his suite for several more years. Since
then, it's still the reputation of the age-old Milanese residence that attracts
not only the glory names of show business but others as well. Bernd
mentioned right away to gaze at the stucco-ceiling and the impressive historic
chandelier, which spans the time-honored interior like a baldachin - has that
something to do with Swiss-chocolate? |
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21st Century meets History - as a
privileged guest you enjoy the amenities of today with the ambience of the
past. All rooms are still equipped with the original furniture, restored during
the recent renovation, recreating the unique environment, which gives you the
opportunity to relive.
As you can probably imagine, the American Dream
Team did its best to experience it all. We found only the most sophisticated
materials such as filigreed carvings, silk wallpaper and an original Verdi
portrait with its costly gold plated frame. We insist as an American Dream
Hot Tip, to attend a Verdi performance at La Scala and stay overnight in
his suite for a truly unforgettable experience! To stay in the 'Verdi Suite' and breath
in the atmosphere, in the very same environment where one of the best known,
loved and performed composers lived and created his music is one of the rare
moments in life worth remembering. Thanks to the preservation minded management
of the Hotel et de Milan this dream is within reach of anyone with
desire. |
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An old traditional story
expresses the heartfelt admiration regarding Giuseppe Verdi who was in those
days not only a great composer but also a national hero of Italy.
The
Milanese people were so enamored with Verdi that on 5th February 1887 after the
premiere of the famous "Othello" the crowd itself pulled his carriage from the
theatre "La Scala" back to the hotel blessing him for his brilliant
performance. The maestro then expressed his gratitude by appearing at the
balcony of this suite accompanied by the famous Tenor Tamagno, presenting some
of the opera's arias.
You still can imagine Verdi, on the balcony of his
suite at the Grand Hotel et de Milan waving to an enthusiastic crowd gathered
below acclaiming him for one of his terrific performances. |
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 Bernd Deyerler and the place where La Traviata has been written by
Verdi |
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| But enough for now about the past - Nicola brought us back on track
and quickly we where guided into the Verdi-lounge. I have to say that the Grand
Hotel et de Milan did some great re-creation work transforming Verdi's Living
room into a state of the art conference room - or what about a culinary
experience - everything is possible. Anything? Almost, imagine having a meeting
with up to 12 clients inside the historical Puccini-Lounge where your are able
to beam a screen out of the ceiling to illustrate your presentation with the
latest Media - technology just like that. All together the Grand Hotel has
three Meeting and Banquet rooms - we are sure they will fit your needs - please
feel free to
take a closer look - ,
if you need a break at the Falstaff bar or the cuisine restaurant they are just
a few steps away, so come on follow us: |
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| Nicola took us up to the
bar and explained us that the Falstaff Bar is an elegant and refined
drawing-room, cozy and welcoming for a pleasant stay, the perfect spot for an
aperitif. A bronze statue adorns the Bar, which became a centre of the Milanese
High Society. |
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 Falstaff Bar and Lounge |
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It is also the place
during the famous fashion weeks of Milan where the top models and designers
chat about the latest creations and gossip a little about the scene. Bernd did
not hesitate to mix with the wild and talkative crowd to get the hippest
fashion ideas for his next shopping tour. |
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Should my intuitions be right, maybe Bernd pre-planed
some extra suitcase capacity in our RIMOWA Suitcase collection for that
very reason.
The American Bar is right next to the Falstaff Bar and a
real temptation for every one who is not only interested on the latest cocktail
developments. Mr. Giovanni de Vecchis, the bar manager, analyzed my preferences
with only a few questions and created a cool, bracing and well tasting special
aperitif out of his huge portfolio. |
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American Dream
Tip: Why not try out a Negroni (Campari, vermouth and Gin on the rocks),
a very fashionable drink, which Giovanni created for me. You will explore three
interlocking columns, it's zesty and sharp all at once; you will enjoy the
feeling of an immediate restart to your day! - We insist that Giovanni will
be your creative director, our heartfelt compliments to Mr. Giovanni de
Vecchis. Bernd indulged a "Falstaff" aperitif - a special house cocktail. As
you can see he is also in love with Giovanni's choice. |
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 Bernd Deyerler & Giovanni de Vecchis |
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| The American (Dream) Bar is the perfect spot for a
cocktail, a quick snack or a Sunday Brunch. We decided with Nicola to share the
pleasure of the other guests and stay for a moment. As you know there are only
a few of these instants where strangers become friends, but this special 'Milan
Moment' became a part of our hearts. |
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short time that we were in Milan, design doesn't end with automobiles or
fashion and even the bartenders originate the creation of an aperitif according
to your desire. That's why you have to be in a constant dialogue with them -
which might take hours sometimes. |
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 Mr. Giovanni de
Vecchis conjures specialties |
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While discussing the
secret recipes of his personal favorites, Giovanni prepared us for the places
to be in Milanese nightlife. Therefore Bernd convinced me to stop with the
endless discussion of the delicious aperitifs and simply listen for a while!
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| From here we went on with our VIP-TOUR through the
Grand Hotel et de Milan and stopped at the respectable Restaurant "Don Carlos".
Just after fashion, the Milanese care deeply about food, or should we say
cuisine - we will attempt to discuss this issue later on. Some Milanese are
quite regimented about where and when they dine and tend to stick to their
excellent native Italian style cooking, rather than international cuisine.
Regarding this case, Milan has some of the best cuisine- temples that Italy has
to offer. If you are in the hunt for the real thing, get away from the so
called "trendy-places", relax and find a simple, true trattoria or restaurant
serving the local Milanese-cuisine. If you are about to make your choice, just
follow us: |
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| American Dream Cuisine |
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Ristorante Don Carlos at the Grand Hotel et de Milan, Italy
receives |
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 Extraordinaire |
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5
Stars & Stripes for Extraordinaire Cuisine & Service |
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The
Ultimate Award: Seven Stars &
Stripes |
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It was the spirit of Maestro Giuseppe Verdi who was a
steady guest of the Grand Hotel et de Milan and the Restaurant "Don Carlos" for
more than twenty years that we came to honor. My first impression was one
of inspiration and awe as we were introduced to Mr. Elvis Shehi the Restaurant
Manager by our host Nicola, who then made a graceful exit as if on stage.
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Mr. Shehi took over and
gave as a brief first impression about the Restaurant: The exquisite dishes are
highlighted by the dappled affect of its antique silver candelabra, in a
comfortable refined and elegant setting, revived by pictures, sketches and
décor coming from the 'La Scala Museum'. We where guided to the
table you are able to see on right. No doubt - perfectly arranged - it resisted
even Bernd's known critical probing views and he agreed too. |
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The numerous pictures on the wall show former Stars
like Maria Callas and most of them where even personally signed. Mr. Shehi
explained us, that some of the pictures are frequently exchanged with the 'La
Scala Museum'. You might even have a chance to meet some of the celebrities
while enjoying the extensive hotel facilities. Before dinner we were invited to
excursion into the ancient Roman ruins under the restaurant and wine cellar -
would you like to join us? |
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The wine cellar is a
real treasury. Valuable and vibrant wines from all over the world - with a
focus on Italian vintages - are kept safe and well tempered under the
restaurant. The cellar it self is reinforced by the remains of the Roman walls,
which Emperor Massimiano had erected in 250 A.D. all around the city of Milan
for defense; very far reaching measures! |
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| Here in this historical wine vault Nicola re-emerged
again and presented to us right away with the wine treasures of the "Caruso".
He showed to us all the wonderful secretes that you are invited to discover on
your next trip to Milan. |
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 Bernd Deyerler & Konstantinos
Stavroulakis |
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We were now
introduced to Mr. Konstantinos Stavroulakis the sommelier. What a brilliant
expert - he presented to us the "Chianti Castello di Ama" 1997, which was
designated for our dinner. |
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 Nicola Toso & Konstantinos Stavroulakis &
Rolf Staehler |
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The Castello di Ama estate operates 90 hectares (222
acres) of specialized vineyards at altitudes ranging from the 390 (1,279 ft.)
of Vigneto Bertinga to the 530 meters (1,739 ft.) of Vingeto Bellavista. The
soil is clayey-calcareous and rich in crumbled stone. Fifty-five hectares (136
acres) are entered on the Chianti Classico DOCG register.
But finally -
let's start with the dinner. No doubt that "Champagne Laurent Perrier" Brut as
an apéritif was a great choice with its light, refreshing and semi dry
taste. It was selected by Mr. Konstantinos Stavroulakis and became for this
evening our favorite Champagne not only to the extensive description of the
sommelier: |
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| Champagne is the
northernmost wine-producing region of France. It is a small beautiful area of
land, representing only 5.6% of A.O.C-registered land and only 3.5% of French
land used for wine growing (Source: C.I.V.C.*, Banque de France.). Output is
limited (both in terms of yield per hectare and pressing and pressurage*) in
order to ensure the quality of the champagne designation. Wines produced under
the designation are thus totally dependent on this land and are limited to the
quantities of grapes produced as approved by the INAO, the Institut National
des Appellations d'Origine. |
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Laurant-Perrier was the
first champagne house to introduce a large proportion of Chardonnay - a
minority grape in the region - into the blend of its Brut L-P, the true
signature of the Laurent-Perrier style. It has also created Ultra-Brut
which is a rare specialty I haven't seen in many places served. It is the
natural descendent of the 'Grand Vin sans sucre' (unsweetened wine) of the 19th
century that requires the subtle skill of assembling high-quality grapes, since
this wine can only be made from very mature grapes with low acid content.
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| Mrs. Monia Greco started serving us with a warm smile
and professional manner beginning with "Dedicated to Aimo" (pictured):
Tagliatelle pasta with pheasant ragout and dried mushrooms. |
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For me it was "The spelt
Guardian": Spelt spaghetti with anchovies, grilled sweet peppers and bread
crumbs with cognac. I recalled that after sampling many pasta dishes around the
world, the definition of "al dente" which means "to the bite" has never been so
clear here. I decided to follow up with my own pasta experiments at home. This
magnificent performance was followed by: "Beetroots for the King": Lobster and
beetroots on smoked potatoes and chervil sauce. The beetroots dominated the
flavor studded with the citrus undertones of chervil. For Bernd it was breaded
and fried fois gras with red onions and saffron sauce. A traditional rendition
of a delicacy spiced up with the delicate flavor of saffron. |
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Our wine selection for this fine course was
"Gewurztraminer Vendange Tardives" 2000 Gruss. It offered pale straw color with
oily citrus and rose petals on the nose. The palate was rich yet mellow, fine
and subtle and clean with concentrated and long lingering complex
flavors.
Our palates were thoroughly conditioned now to expect the
unexpected, and we now eagerly awaited our next surprise. During our dinner we
asserted that in the "Don Carlos" culinary expertise and impeccable service is
combined with an atmosphere of bygone days. A very experienced and well trained
team serves the guests and I was very pleased by the charming very personal
service that fits perfectly to the romantic ambience of the scene. |
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| My next course was
Anastasia sage-flavored sturgeon with caviar on potato chips and vodka gelee.
The very light taste of Vodka worked well to support the other components. To
find the underlying cause of this interesting combination I could not resist
asking for some more Vodka jelly! For experimental purposes it was only to
convince myself to identify the source of the light Vodka taste. In turn it was
the flavor of the feathery light vodka gelee that complimented the robust taste
of the caviar. |
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Our next wine paring was the L'Altro" Chardonnay Pio
Cesare 2002, surprisingly complex, smooth and opulent in character. It is
delicate and fruity, offering banana and tropical fruit with yellow and green
tints.
For Bernd it was the Michelangelo: Wild Boar chops in Chianti
wine and cinnamon with mint flan, which proved to offer untamed heartiness with
the refinement of a carefully crafted Chianti. Bernd tried to learn the recipe
because I think he was maybe a little jealous on this sauce!
For this
robust entrée it had to be paired with the "Chianti Castello di Ama"
Chianti 1997. This excellent selection offered deep garnet red color with pure
highlights of plum, cherry and cloves, truly an estate quality wine.
The continuous underlying theme of original flavors with different
complex components is recognizable throughout the entire creative dining
event. |
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The originality
continued with the desert course of beetroot Bavarian cream with carrots mousse
and tobacco sauce. A refreshing and also surprising finale with well prepared
"coffee beans", which is the link to the coming Espresso.
The ethereal
lightness of the beetroot cream proved comfortably sweet with the carrot mousse
offering an herbal hint for balance. We thought that the Executive Chef was
surely inspired by our Bavarian heritage as reflected in his cuisine.
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| It wasn't difficult to see at this point that
creativity, originality and intense flavor were the main ingredients in this
extraordinary culinary performance. |
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| As I prepared for my
dessert course I looked up to see the Chef himself approaching to serve me. It
was a chestnut turnover, combining a crisp and elegant taste with a surprising
core of chestnut mousse. We agreed it was indeed a feast for the eyes as well
as for the palate. I really enjoyed this opportune moment chatting with the
Chef about his secrets. |
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| At the end Bernd couldn't resist to ask for the famous
Italian specialty, Gelato. The chef smiled and served NOSTRI GELIATI (a
wonderful mélange of Yogurt, cream, almonds, chocolate and ginger). It
was our very own Italian ending to a delicious firework of specialties
complimented by strong espresso with perfect crema. To all non Milanese cuisine
experts, crema is the creamy top of an espresso that guarantees the
reincarnation from a normal espresso into a real Italian specialty.
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 Monia Greco & Edoardo Ferrera & Elvis
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It was not only the
tasteful and noble decor of the Restaurant, and the historical flair of the
world of Operas, but there were also some wonderful people heavily involved.
The American Dream Magazine Showcase of Stars
presents:
Former Chef de cuisine, Mr. Edoardo Ferrera, the
art-director in white was the creator of all these dishes, which where so
incredibly friendly to our palate. Mr. Elvis Shehi, to the right is managing
the "Caruso" and took care of the well being of all his guests on this evening.
On the left side Mrs. Monia Greco served and explained the dishes and the
beverages in her skilful and friendly way. She and Mr. Konstantinos
Stavroulakis, (we met him some pictures before demonstrating a bottle of wine
to Bernd), advise and instruct their guests with much attention and
competence. |
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The American Dream Team Summary:
We were thrilled to
have discovered the "Don Carlos" for you, where Italian specialties meet
cuisine in perfection and are served in a calm, personal ambiance. The "Don
Carlos" is for sure one of the most exclusive restaurants in Milan, where Haute
Cuisine is served or should we say, celebrated. A decidedly warm atmosphere,
individualized service with deep knowledge about the served dishes and of
course the great Chef himself, taking personally time to discuss each of the
courses with us always striving for improvement and uniqueness, are the factors
that contribute to overall success. |
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After a refreshing
night, with no bedtime sweets for me but two for Bernd - I decided to do some
exercise before breakfast. Let's say I tried it for a few minutes to ease
my conscience, but for someone who is willing to exercise there is a variety of
modern work-out machines in the gym. The reoccurring thought of breakfast
successfully overshadowed my good intentions.
If you enter the "Caruso"
and sneak around, you can imagine that in former times on the raised
balcony-like area many famous, good-tempered singers might have given a song to
a thankful audience. |
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The
aroma of freshly brewed coffee roasted to perfection and served in style,
called us to the table. Simultaneously, Bernd was inspired to try some of the
large selection of typical Italian fine Prosciutto, air dried Salami and
Cheese. I couldn't resist ordering a nice, perfectly made omelet and as a
special test for our American readers, I ordered some bacon. I discovered that
they know how to do it right especially when you jump start the day with a
glass of Villa Sandi Prosecco Spumante di Valdobbiadene DOC. A special Italian
sparkling wine out of the foothills of the Montello with a bouquet of intense
fruit offering strong scents of ripe golden apple, while finishing fresh and
lightly mouth-filling.
A little further on, the Caruso is also the ideal
setting for business-lunches or gourmet-meetings during a lunch-break. The
foliage of the piazza outside affords the bright room a pleasant aura of a
'Jardin d'Hiver' and during warmer months it's even possible to dine outdoors.
Our intensive breakfast provided plenty of time for Bernd and me to do some
planning to see some of the exiting sights of Milan, full of history and
fashion. |
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| Our Fashion tour began
actually inside the Grand Hotel et de Milan - yes you heard it right. Fashion
designers have the possibility to present their current and historic fashion in
some of the old wooden luxury displays. This old litter is decorating sections
of the Fire Place Hall. In earlier centuries, it gave the impression of
honorable transportation. |
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 Historic fashion display |
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The changing exhibitions
are attracting every lady who is interested in the latest style - sometimes to
the amusement of the gentlemen, who have the honor to make it possible. All
these little details and the glamorous classic design make the hotel the place
to be for the famous fashion gurus. I am convinced it is the most stylish
location in Milan. |
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Roundwalk - A world in fashion
This famous fashion
district of Milan starts immediately in front of the Grand Hotel et de
Milan. |
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 Rolf Staehler - If looks could kill |
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The tall
fashion shop windows in trendy Milan are concentrated in the streets of the
conveniently central area beginning just 10 minutes from Piazza della Scala and
running along Via Monte Napoleone, Via Sant' Andrea, Via della Spiga. Those who
come from the outskirts of Milan can reach the area easily by the yellow subway
line number 3, getting off at the Monte Napoleone stop. We started with the
most exclusive shops in the "Triangolo d'Oro", the Golden Triangle, between the
places della Scala, Cavour and San Babila. |
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good starting point we discovered the Via Manzoni, a road that can only be
described as the "Armani-Ville". A visit to the Armani showroom can get you
your very own Giorgio Armani lifestyle tailored suit. It is not just the
clothes but flowers, books and the latest furnishings that are available too.
It's definitely the flagship store where you can have the best overview about
the current fashion collection. It was hard to get myself out of the store.
Sorry Bernd, if looks and fashion could kill! |
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| While you are at Armani, you might want to take some
time to dine at the famous Japanese restaurant Nobu, or wander into the
Trussardi Building. Not only a showroom for leather designs, it includes a
restaurant, café, bar and a wonderful view of the most famous square of
all Milan- the Piazza del Escala. Enjoy a light cocktail at this venerable
landmark. Both Nobu and Trussardi are impossibly trendy and provide the fashion
community with somewhere to exchange gossip about the latest trends.
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The
excitement of it all has created a strong desire to join in the fray and
purchase some of the latest designs for our personal wardrobe.
It all
begins to make sense now as to why Bernd transported the entire collection of
half empty Rimowa suitcases all the way from home. The extra space was expected
to satisfy a secret impulse for designer clothes. What do you think of Bernd's
new image! |
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 Bernd Deyerler - If looks could kill |
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| Traversing all those streets can lead you to the most
elegant Via della Spiga where you find shops like Bulgari, Roberto Cavalli and
Gianfranco Ferré. We are in very serious danger of becoming seduced by
the fancy display windows of those exclusive shops and we are thankful that we
are here without our ladies. Can you imagine what our trip to Milan would maybe
"cost" us with a few more weeks of our spare time? |
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Besides lots of hip
fashion advertisements, you also come across innovative design ideas like this
show window, where a young lady is jumping through a newspaper. The artistic
way to present the best in fashion is worth a walk around this famous area
alone. Take your time!
While you're in the Golden Triangle, don't
forget to take a sneak at the antique shops and modern art galleries that lurk
behind today's clothes stores. The tranquility of the 18th-century side
streets, particularly the Via Borgospesso, provides a necessary breather from
all the fashion, but be warned! Here image is everything. |
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| Be prepared to be scrutinized from head to toe, and look your best -
(as this young man in our photo obviously wasn't concerned) - or boutique staff
won't give you a second glance. I really liked the scene when the construction
workers had hard times focusing on their work while wraith-like beauties pass
in full view dressed in the latest creations. Even if your Italian stretches no
further than "Ciao Bella", make sure that you look the part. |
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| Round off your shopping
experience at the hip Corso Como 10, an ideal venue for those with a taste for
the alternative in shopping. Here, you can fill the design gaps in your home as
well as your wardrobe, and sample some modern Italian house design. There are
exclusive ranges of cool and exotic items such as Indian candles, oriental
fabrics and modern Italian furnishings. |
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| Of course for the major fashions brands opening flagship stores here
make sense when licensing and manufacturing links with Italy already exist.
Alexander McQueen is part of the Gucci empire Gibo, one of Italy's largest
manufacturing companies. The Burberry designer Christopher Bailey lives and
works in Milan and Jimmy Choo's sassy shoes and handbags are produced
exclusively in Venice and Florence. |
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 Yves Saint Laurent - Rolf Staehler |
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In Vivienne Westwood's
case, Italy produces all clothing and accessories through licenses. Also Yves
Saint Laurent has strong links to the Italian past and present of fashion.
We didn't hesitate to try this new collection and I sampled the newest
styles of neckwear and completed my collection of classic and high end shirts.
Bernd reached out for the classic brown leather pair of shoes together
with a modern cut of casual jacket. It was good that our new Rimowa companions
were offering so much space for this adventure although I still had to lend my
medium sized suitcase to Bernd! |
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After many miles of fashion and other most desirable
subjects, we decided to enter the heart of Milanese historic shopping temples.
The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, to the north of Piazza Duthe lively omo, is
one of the world's most elegant shopping malls and one of the first buildings
in Europe to use iron and glass as structural elements. Here you will find not
only stylish cafés, restaurants and shops its also a place to be
completely absorbed in.
As the world's first shopping mall, the
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, was built in Milan in 1878. But this Galleria was
erected before electricity, before cars, before air conditioning even before
the American Dream Show. |
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The architect Mengoni
built an arched glass roof over the intersection of two major Milan streets.
The 4-story domed glass roof connected the tops of existing commercial
buildings, which faced inward to beautiful tiled walkways. The glass arcade was
a luxury to 19th century shoppers. No more rain and wind to walk through and it
was beautiful and so useful, like today. The Galleria helped Milan become a
fashion capital by attracting designer shops and stylish society to its
protected arcade.
Though the four arched exits have no doors, they open
onto the famous Duomo Cathedral and the worlds most prestigious opera
house, La Scala. The Galleria has a unique Italian albergo diurno, or daytime
hotel, where you can take an hour's nap, take a bath, get a haircut, or have
your clothes pressed, steamed and ironed. After our shopping experience I liked
the idea of being refreshed for the upcoming evening. |
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After a century, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele is
still a very popular place to go on Sunday afternoons to meet friends and to
show off your best fashions for lunch, coffee, or window shopping. Sound
familiar? Somehow it has a touch of main street in the Hamptons. I enjoyed the
liveliness and colorfulness of the scene while Bernd couldnt stop
shooting all this rich beauty with his brand new camera. I could rest for hours
here!
Not even the architecture but also the fine exclusive shops
featuring luxury products like superior Italian perfume, classic sweets and
again high-class designer clothes that are beautifully presented and
impressive. |
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 Galleria Vittorio Emanuele
II |
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While
watching from curbside tables belonging to the Galleria's many bars and
restaurants, one can feel the pulse of the heart of the city of Milan. The
special bars of Milan are inspiring places to chat, to exchange the latest
news, meet and be met, and of course to eat while you are "people watching" and
enjoy your appropriate Milanese aperitif. |
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 Galleria Vittorio Emanuele
II |
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After leaving the Galleria we followed the Via Dante,
which passes some interesting museums to visit the "Civica Galleria dArte
Moderna", with 19th and 20th century works. Also quite interesting is the
"Civiche Raccolte Archeologiche" with Greek and Roman archeological samples the
"Museo Poldi Pezzoli" with Italian and foreign works and "Pinacoteca
Ambrosiana" with Leonardo, Tiziano, Botticelli and Caravaggio works.
But maybe the real art objects are the policemen in charge of enforcing
some rules in the lively streets around the area. Dressed by Armani they seem
to fit the image as you can see this gentleman in the picture. |
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If you decide to take a
rental car and drive around, be aware of a meditation lifestyle on the streets,
which reflects the pulse of the City.
Frequently visited shops, and the
traffic mixture of pedestrian, motorbikes, automobiles and trams help to create
the unique lively Southern European atmosphere.
But, If you think that
New Jerseys driver are somewhat strange, believe me Italian drivers are
famous for their impulsive way of driving making Milan itself the melting point
of a unique style of driving. |
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 An anonymous Armani model? |
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| Our next stop was just minutes away, The Teatro alla
Scala or the La Scala opera house, as it is typically known. It first opened in
1778 and was the scene of many famous operatic first nights throughout the 19th
and 20th centuries. The La Scala was heavily damaged in World War II, it
reopened in 1946, and you can enjoy the opera, theatre, ballet and concerts
here year-round, except during August. |
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 Inside the
Cathedral |
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The
Cathedral shows us the Lombard's preference for an openhanded facade. It has
about 2000 sculptures and innumerable spires and pinnacles. American Dream Tip:
Don't miss a visit to the Cathedral's roof and interior, you'll be rewarded by
a wonderful landscape view of Milan and labor intensive detail from within.
To escape from the restlessness and the bustle of the town it takes
just a few steps into the Cathedral. Here between the wonderful altars, frescos
and statues reigns a stillness and peacefulness that gives back your strength
and joyfulness to go out again.
I really enjoyed early evening in the
cafes in front of the cathedral during our Milan stay, especially when the sun
was bathing this magnificent monument in a light yellow hue. |
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| When our walk round the city came to an end we still hadn't enjoyed
one of the most important rituals for Milanese residents. After work, many
Italians will stop in a bar for an aperitivo, which is a drink
accompanied by bar-snacks. So Bernd almost had to force me to refresh in one of
the most popular bars in the city center, Zucca. |
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Campari - Founded at Cafe Zucca
It was the favorite
place of Giuseppe Verdi and Arturo Toscanini, who used to stop here after a
glorious performance at la Scala. Dudovich and Carrà often stayed until
the late hours, and King Umberto the First loved to come here because in Zucca
you can get the best coffee that is available in Milan. The great canvas master
Boccioni even portrayed it in the famous painting "The Brawl in the Galleria".
Many people of distinction loved it in the past; "Zucca in Galleria" is still a
fascinating place of today because its guests find themselves in a setting,
which exudes culture and history. |
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| Presently, this first Milanese café belongs to
the Society of Italian Historical Establishment and for more than a century it
has witnessed the repeated succession of the prestigious Campari and Zucca
trademarks that have alternately graced its walls. In January 1996 it became
"Zucca in Galleria" once again. The café makes one weird claim to fame:
its shop windows have been smashed 86 times over 40 years of political unrest!
Today times have changed and the Galleria with its shops and bars is seen as
the pearl of Italian culture. It is one of the places which made Milan famous
as a city for socializing while sipping Campari - a well-known drink used for
cocktails or tasted on its own - was invented here in 1867. Zucca, which has
made its Milanese identity a point of reference for the company promoted
Campari as a Milanese ritual. Once it caught on, it perfectly concurred with
the style of the Miani family, the owners of the café who are staunch
upholders of ceremony and tradition. |
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The owner Mr. Orlando
Chiari who within a split second created a warm and charming atmosphere
personally welcomed us. What a Gentleman! His open friendliness and noble
elegance accompanied by his beautiful and lively wife impressed me. During
this warm chat we got deeper into the history of Zucca. Orlando has a profound
knowledge about every detail regarding this historic bar he told us,
that he even wrote a book: Campari Zucca Miani: 135
years of Milanese history and its available in English
too, a copy of which is now bedecking my private bookshelf. Our American
Dream TIP try to see Orlando and ask for a copy of his book that even
has a collection of signatures of well know celebrities who joined his bar next
to an exclusive cocktail selection. |
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 Orlando Chiari & Bernd Deyerler |
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| Together we enjoyed his invitation
while sipping the exciting 'Rabarbaro Zucca'.
Zucca, a classic aperitif, has a pleasant and delicate taste with only 16%
alcoholic graduation. Choose the natural taste of Zucca and mix it with
sparkling water or shake it with ice cubes. Add Vanil, the vanilla-flavoured
liqueur and... Have a good Zucca! As an aperitif it is enjoyed cold with
mineral water and ice. As a "digestivo" the Zucca is served steam-warmed or
with little boiling water! Can you imagine? Bernd promised to try the warm
alternative at home. |
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It has always been
custom for Milanese society to drink an aperitif while leaning against the
inventive wood-inlaid bar designed by Eugenio Quarti, a famous
turn-of-the-century cabinet-marker. But we wouldnt be the American Dream
Team if we couldnt have tried something new for you: The newly invented
Zucca- Lavazza Cappuccino and Espresso just ask Orlando and
he will personally take care of your unique creation. He is able to initialize
your very own Mission to Espresso by creating a Cappuccino or
Espresso that will lead your imagination to an unknown planet were gravity
doesnt belong. Bernd and I had to look twice due to the new Zucca
aperitif after we thought that we might have seen an apparition. But its
true gravity is out of order if Orlando is your Starfleet commander and
trans-warps your Lavazza Cappuccino into a new dimension. |
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Further on Orlando told us, that coffee - and above
all the espresso - is something that sets Italy apart from other countries. To
quote de Talleyrand, Coffee is to Italy, what champagne is to
France. Agatha Christie conveys the same concept by means of contrast:
Coffee in England always tastes like a chemistry experiment. In
England, a cup of coffee generally means a lot of liquid, sitting down and
having a good chat. In Italy, an espresso is just 30 ml of coffee, containing
1.5 grams of soluble substances, and zero calories.
If youre not
interested in shopping then maybe you are interested at the fashion society. A
good place to find it is in Porta Garibaldi, where youll discover
"l'Hollywood", the historic club always full of models and celebrities; another
interesting night club in this area is "l'Hoolappaloosa", which is more of a
student hangout where you can dance on the tables.
For now it was time
to leave but well be back, from out of space. As we knew from our
Concierge at the Grand, there are in general two districts, which have all the
top venues - the Brera north of the Duomo, or the Navigli on the canals
designed by Leonardo da Vinci. Wander along the Conca del Naviglio for bars
such as the Tribeca or Biciclette. My good friend Bernd - Mr. Nightfly - and I
decided to choose the Il Gattopardo Café for the all encompassing fun
part of our review, a place which was strongly recommended by our Concierge at
the Grand. |
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Nightlife in Milan - Il
Gattopardo Café
We were welcomed by the general manager Mr.
Davide as we entered the hottest nightclub in the heart of Milan. There are not
many places in Europe to spend a great evening with the fashion crowd presented
in an extraordinary interior illumination. Il Gattopardo Café, Via Piero
della Francesca 17 is located in a deconsecrated church in the upwardly mobile
northwest of the center. It is still the haunt of the idle rich and upwardly
mobile Milanese youth and it is essential to make reservations in advance. Hip
music and a cool ambience are the keynotes, which will make your stay as
special as our extraordinary experience. |
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It was opened to the
public in September 2001, after a yearlong restoration that was aimed at
preserving the monument's architectural uniqueness while modifying the space to
new use. We believe it really deserves to be seen and is a great place to dance
the night away.
Where fashion meets music can be the theme
of this club, which is the brainchild of a group of young businessmen whose
backgrounds are in the entertainment and fashion industries. The dynamic
synergy of their past expertise gives "Il Gattopardo café" its unique
energy and atmosphere. |
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 Il Gattopardo
VIP-TOUR |
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| The name was chosen because the
architecture of the building and the club's décor recall the luxury and
the glitz of Sicilian palaces of the Bourbon era. The heart of the club is the
bar where besides cocktails, delicious small appetizers are offered to the
guests for free. This is a typical Milanese tradition, which you can enjoy in
most bars in Northern Italy. For some, it even replaces the dinner.
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 Rolf Stähler - Il
Gattopardo VIP-TOUR |
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While studying the abundant variety
of appetizers, Mr. Davide invited us to taste a Mojito, the typical Cuban
cocktail. It is made with 2-3 oz Light rum, fresh limejuice of 1 Lime (1 oz), 2
tsp of brown sugar, 2-4 Mint sprigs and some Soda water. The Il Gattopardo is a
must-see and a great place for an aperitif or late night dance. When Bernd
left, I promised him not to disappoint the dancing crowd while he is absent. It
was a late night of fun in one of the 'Pleasure Domes' of Milan!
Oh what
a night! After a night like this I yearned for a cozy bath and great breakfast
while Bernd spent his time in the fitness club of the hotel. While enjoying the
wonderful ambiance in the bathroom listening to music by George Gershwin and
dreaming of the 'Good Old Times' I recovered easily. Slightly dancing from the
bathroom to the bedroom I had to recognize that Bernd already ate his delicious
bedtime-sweets as well as mine. There must be something good about it and I
promised myself to ask Nicola for the vendor of this fine chocolate. I would
love to surprise the family with this little extra. A delicious breakfast
followed where I met Bernd again who seemed empowered by his fitness experience
(and energized by the bedtime sweets).
As a last point on our journey
through Milan we have been invited to the brand-new STRAF design hotel in the
very heart of Milan next to the Cathedral. |
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Excursion into modern styles -
Straf Design Hotel
Near to the Duomo, well hidden amongst the huge
historic buildings, you can find one of the new Boutique design
hotels of this world: STRAF
Mr. Massimo Santilli the room division
manager, gave us a short glance around. The purpose was a design with
simplicity and love for purism that aims to not stress your senses with too
many intense colors. The elements of natural stone, water and light give you
the chance to relax from the busy central quarters of Milan where the Straf is
located. |
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 Elegance
and simplicity in the Design Hotel Straf |
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I have never seen such
smart and simple-to-use technical equipment in a room. Touch screens offer all
types of information and service. The unique forms in the bathroom where all
the equipment has been uniquely designed for the STRAF impressed Bernd. Mr.
Sanitilli proudly explained the conceptual details while Bernd didnt
hesitate once again to try the bedtime-sweets on the night table. Am I right
Bernd? |
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| From colorful beauty to the cool chill out atmosphere,
we have experienced these contrasts in Milan and it all comes together in a
perfect Mélange. Don't miss it! It's more then worth a try
its a must. |
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by Rolf Staehler & Bernd
Deyerler
Editor-in-Chief: John Lomitola
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